Subject: Enduro Techniques for Devils Tower
1. Every time that you go to the gym start the session with some easy stretches.....and some "A.R.C."ing. ARC is an acronym for Aerobic, Respiratory and Capillary. To "ARC" you simply traverse sideways, keeping your feet off of the ground, seeking moderately challenging holds. Start with trying to stay off of the ground and moving, 5-10 minutes.If you do fall off, get back on quickly and resume. The Joy and Beauty of this exercise is both that you can do it alone, without a belay (and needing only boots and a chalk bag) and that your endurance will grow rapidly. Initially 5-10 minutes will seem difficult.!! If you keep at it, within 4-6 weeks, you will be floating across the wall for 30-40 minutes sessions !!!! This is the single, quickest way to endurance that I have come across in 36 years of climbing !!!
2.Every time that you climb us the "Three And You're Out" Rule. Gym climbs are generally short. Climbing 25-30 ft and then taking a break neither helps your strength, nor does it prepare you for the longer (100-150ft) pitches that you will encounter climbing outside. The " Three And You're Out" rule means two things.....
A. Every time that you tie into a rope, be sure to do 3 laps, that is climb to the top anchors 3 times with little to no rest in-between.
B. After you have fallen 3 times, just QUIT IT and lower down. After three successive falls you need to take a break as you have a diminished chance of "getting" the move and an increased chance of hurting yourself through a tear, pull or strain. Climb Smarter and Harder, both !!!!!! Don't get hurt.
3.At the end of each session, just before you leave the gym for the afternoon/night, find a corner and stem up it, using the "No Fair Pulling Down on Any Hold" Rule. You only get to PUSH down on the holds, with your hands. It is a Great stretch, at the end of a workout. Even if your finger,arms and shoulders are tired from your work out, it doesn't matter. This exercise only involves Pushing and Stretching !!
4.Other guidelines for gym climbing should include, but no be limited to;
Climb as much as you can.........................................................then,
Belay as much as you can.........................................................then,
Keep drinking water as much as you can......................................then,
If you find yourself standing and talking, get back on the wall...........then,
If you find that you can tie your street shoes and grasp the steering wheel easily.................................then go back in and climb some more !!!!!
5. For your first, and subsequent, gym sessions, as you work through the above guidelines, you should focus on
doing 4 things, as you climb each climb;
A. Get your thumb on every hold possible (thumb is the strongest finger, so make sure that its on the hold)
B.Only place the "Sweet Spot" of your foot on any hold. ( The ''Sweet Spot" is from the base of your big toe to the tip of your big toe. NEVER USE YOUR INSTEP!!!!)
C.Use only a "Straight-Arm" or "Lock-in" position with your elbow. It is instinctive to use a 90 degree angle at your elbow. DON'T DO THIS!! It rapidly sucks away your strength. ALWAYS use "Straight Arm" (elbow fully extended) hang or a "Lock In" (elbow fully contracted, hand by your collarbone). ANYTHING else drains your batteries at an alarming rate!!
D.Be constantly aware of having your weight on your feet, NOT YOUR ARMS. If your arms are tiring you are
NOT using your feet!!
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